A Guide To Vintage Port
The History of Port
The history of Port dates back to the 17th Century although Vintage Port did not begin until later.
There were two decisive factors that influenced the development of this, the greatest of all Ports: In the early part of the 18th century glass bottles were low and squat used primarily for taking wine from the cask to the table. They were quite unsuitable for lying down. Gradually a taller style evolved and by the 1770's the bottles had developed a longer neck with a more cylindrical shape that allowed them to be stored in a cellar. Port could now be matured in the bottle.
It was also about this time that the practice of adding a little brandy to the fermenting must was adopted, thus preserving some of the natural grape sugar in the wine.
These two factors enabled the early bottling of excellent Vintage Ports from the Douro and its subsequent ageing in bottle. Very soon the unique style and quality resulting from the slow bottle maturing of Vintage Port became apparent.
Historical records show that Ports from specific vintages were being offered to the English market from 1773 but these wines were commonly kept in cask for 4 years followed by 2 years in bottle before being released for sale. It is claimed that the first wine that could be justly named Vintage Port was introduced in 1775. Sarah Bradford in her book on Port claims that it was only in 1787 that the French followed this example with their first vintage Bordeaux wine (claret). Although it would be difficult to prove that Vintage Port was the first wine to be offered, it was certainly at the same time if not actually before Bordeaux.
THE 19th CENTURY
It was not however until the 19th century that the Vintage Port that we know today truly emerged.
Christie's catalogues mention specific producer's wines from 1805 and furthermore says of the 1858 Vintage that it was "a rare two year bottling at this period, three year bottling being more normal". In 1824 an English historian, Henderson, wrote of Port, "It is only after it has been kept ten or fifteen years in the bottle that the odour of the brandy is completely subdued, and the genuine aroma of the wine is developed."
Throughout the later half of the 1800's Port producers continued to offer wine from the great Vintages for bottling. The bottling would normally take place in the country that had imported the wine. In most cases this was the British market which was the first to really appreciate the wonders of great bottle matured Vintage Port.
The phylloxera plague caused wide spread devastation in the Douro in the 1870's and interrupted the availability of Vintage Port. By 1896 the practice of grafting had been introduced and proved a successful solution to combating the pest. George Warre of the famous Port family, wrote in that year, "This year's wines are I consider better than any since 1878 and will I hope and believe start a new era in the Port wine trade." He was right: the Port of that year turned out to be one of the greatest Vintage Ports of the century.
THE 20th CENTURY
The 20th century began with four great classics; the 1900, 1904, 1908 and 1912 Vintages.
By this time, Vintage Port was widely recognised as one of the world's great wines and certain producers had built significant reputations for their wines. These producers' wines became more and more sought after as a result.
Shortly after the Second World War, the Port Wine Institute (IVP) published regulations on all Port categories. Vintage Port was to be bottled in its second year following the harvest. By 1974 the IVP had enforced bottling in Portugal only so ending a long tradition of Vintage Port bottling abroad. Although at the time this was not well received in some foreign markets, the trade very quickly accepted the ruling. Apart from the obvious advantage of strict controls, obligatory Oporto-bottling eliminated the significant variations that could occur between different bottling times by wine merchants abroad.
There has always been some friendly debate as to the ideal age for drinking Vintage Port. One well-known guideline is that when the wine is twenty years old it has reached its perfect maturity, although in the United States and other markets, many appreciate the power and fruit of a younger Vintage. Anyone who has tasted Vintages from 1927, 1934 or 1945 will agree that a great Vintage Port will continue to provide a unique experience for many years beyond its twentieth birthday.
THE SINGLE QUINTA VINTAGE
Vintage Port from a single estate or Quinta has an interesting history.
During the 19th century a few Quinta Vintage Ports emerged; Quinta do Vesuvio being amongst the very earliest. The best-known Port companies would normally produce Vintage Port using the very finest wines from two or three key estates. By doing this, the producer would create a perfectly balanced wine hence establishing the reputation of the great Port houses.
However over the last 50 years or so, more single estate or Quinta wines have appeared, some from the leading producer's prime vineyards and others from new independent estates. All have added to the variety and quality of Vintage Port available to the consumer. The main producers will still maintain however that the greatest Vintage Ports are made by the combination of the pick of the best wines from their finest estates. Some excellent Quinta Ports are nevertheless available.
Declaration of a Vintage >>